It’s early morning, and my family and I are sailing aboard the Diamond Princess through the Kanmon Straits, a short stretch of water separating Japan’s two largest islands: Honshu and Kyushu. We’ve just watched a sunrise so beautiful it looked painted on.
As we glide beneath the Kanmon Bridge, the kilometre-long span linking the islands, another view unfolds. On either side, the twin cities of Shimonoseki and Kitakyushu slowly stir to life in the frigid morning light – and those of us who’ve braved the cold on the upper deck enjoy a front row seat.
Later that day, the scenery is every bit as captivating. As we depart the Straits, the setting sun bathes a field of offshore wind turbines in golden light, their blades turning as if offering a farewell to Japan before our short crossing to Korea.
The vistas rival any I’ve encountered in Japan, and they’re views only a cruise could deliver.
Island hopping
For a country defined by the seas around it (think climate and culture, and especially food), exploring Japan – an archipelago of more than 6,000 islands – by ship seems only natural. Yet while record numbers of Australians visit Japan (around 1 million arrived in 2025), relatively few choose to cruise.
I’d been one of them, despite visiting countless times thanks to my half-Japanese heritage. Until now.
As interest in Japan soars, more and more major cruise lines are setting sail for the Asian nation. But only one can boast two Japanese-built ships among its fleet: Princess Cruises.
Our trip aboard one of those ships, Diamond Princess, begins in Yokohama, a major port hub just south of Tokyo.
For those who want to experience Japan’s second biggest city before departure, there are plenty of sights on the doorstep of the cruise terminal, including the country’s biggest and best Chinatown, excellent shopping in underrated Motomachi, waterside parks and attractions, and even a Cup Noodles Museum (better than sounds).
The first 2.5 days of this 10-night voyage, which explores southern and western Japan with a brief stop in Korea, are spent at sea. And as we’re only sailing the first half of the itinerary, it’s the perfect opportunity to get acquainted with the ship, its crew and indeed our fellow passengers.
Where locals go
Built in Japan, the Diamond Princess was designed with the domestic market in mind. As such, there’s no shortage of Japanese guests here. Want cultural immersion? Where else could you share a space with hundreds of locals, visiting various cities and sights they’re even excited to see?
You might even make new friends, as I do with Koji, a 50-something Japanese cruiser from Hokkaido, travelling with his wife. We meet on Centre Court, a cool multipurpose space that, on this day, is hosting friendly one-on-one football.
The game is one of numerous organised activities aboard the ship. Whether you’re into karaoke, trivia or art gallery scavenger hunts (one of my daughter’s favourites), there’s something for pretty much everyone.
There’s even a traditional sake barrel-breaking ceremony – a Japanese custom held to mark new beginnings and bring good fortune – in the Grand Plaza, the vibrant centre of activity on the ship.
And… relax
If you want to take your relaxation to the next level, the Diamond Princess’ Lotus Spa offers an extensive selection of treatments, including deep-tissue massages, hot-stone therapy, detox wraps and salt scrubs.
Game to try almost anything, I give the Ultimate Facial a go, which includes light therapy, cryotherapy and several treatments I’d never heard of, but leave me glowing afterwards.
If you’re after even more pampering, there’s the exclusive adults-only retreat next door at The Sanctuary.
While I’m oxygenising my face (apparently something I should have tried a long time ago), my daughter is happily occupied in the Kids Club, a welcoming and well-run space where the staff quickly win her over. By the end of the session, she’s settled right in, made friends and, much to our surprise, has no interest in leaving.
“Can you come back an hour later?” I hear at multiple pick-ups.
Dining delight
Five nights isn’t nearly enough time to get to all of the dining experiences here – there are nearly 20 aboard the Diamond, from main dining and room service to premium restaurants and experiential eateries (pop-ups?) like a private meal hosted by the ship’s executive chef called Chef’s Table. But there are a few that passengers shouldn’t miss.
As vegetarians, our favourite is Sabatini’s, an Italian restaurant specialising in Tuscan cuisine. For those with a Premier Package, dining here – and at other premium restaurants – is included. But even without the package, it’s worth the cover charge (US$55). Think fettuccine with generous portions of sliced truffles, ricotta tortello (or “pillow pasta”, as my daughter likes to call it) and eggplant parmigiana for mains, and tiramisu, cannoli, and my fave, a torte Caprese (flourless almond cake) with hints of limoncello mascarpone, for dessert.
The experience is so good, we return the next evening. On the second night, we strike up a long chat with an American couple who’ve cruised extensively but are equally enthused about Sabatini’s.
Earlier this year, the ship welcomed two more specialty dining venues: Princess’ signature Crown Grill steakhouse and Makoto Ocean, a modern nigiri sushi restaurant that serves dishes like truffle salmon, snow crab temaki, toro tartare, and, yes, caters surprisingly well to vegos. The paired Japanese-themed cocktail list, with lots of yuzu and sake, adds to the local flavours.
It’s showtime
Then there’s the evening entertainment.
Along with the usual cruise ship solo acts peppered across venues, the sounds of Liverpool’s favourite sons, The Beatles, have been transplanted into the Princess Theatre, as “John and Paul” take us through the band’s early days on night one before returning on night three with full costumes, an orchestra and later Beatles classics. There’s banter, sing-alongs, and a nearly full house on both nights, who lap it up.
On the middle night, the ship’s main theatre hosts a spectacular show by world-renowned Japanese juggler, Tempei, who spellbinds the crowd with jaw-dropping skill. Our daughter even takes part in the show (the advantage of sitting in the front row), spinning plates with an enormous smile. A lifelong memory, no doubt.
Elsewhere, we give the silent disco a go – to humorous effect – in Club Fusion, and of course, karaoke (this is a Japan cruise, after all) in the Explorer’s Lounge.
Whatever you’re into, you’ll find something entertaining.
Shore things
While the Diamond Princess offers more than enough to keep you entertained, the real reason we’re here lies beyond the gangway.
Our first stop is Hiroshima. It’s obviously a popular place, and everyone knows about the Peace Memorial Park, Peace Museum and Atomic Bomb Dome; they’re among Japan’s most significant landmarks and remain essential visits.
Most visitors would also know about Miyajima Island, with its World Heritage-listed Itsukushima Shrine and floating red ‘tori’ gate. While you’re there, be sure to try its momiji monja cakes.
But cruising with Princess opens doors that many independent travellers would never think to knock on.
During our shore-ex, we visit an oyster farm, try our hand at lacquering at an esteemed lacquer store, and dine at a 75-year-old restaurant specialising in Hiroshima’s take on the classic okonomiyaki dish, where all the ingredients are stacked, not mixed together.
Our charming guide, Nobu, has her own inspiring tales. Her father was an atomic bomb survivor and is still alive.
The next day, we visit Shimonoseki, a city famed for its fugu (pufferfish), but whose attractions are more than surface-deep, literally.
Our day trip comprises an exploration of Akiyoshido Caves, one of Japan’s largest networks of caverns, and the beautiful limestone-covered Akiyoshi Plateau.
After lunch, which features local kawara (matcha-infused) soba, we get hands-on at an ink stone workshop and stop at the Akama soy sauce and miso factory, where we’re guided through the distillery process (and even given a turn at stirring giant barrels of fermented soy beans). We leave smiling, smelling faintly of soybeans and laden with our purchases of first-press soy sauce (hands down, the best shōyu I’ve ever tasted).
While some of these experiences are still in the trial phase, they demonstrate Princess’ commitment to continually raising the bar for guests.
Onboard onsen
When you’re sailing aboard Diamond Princess, there’s no need to wait until you’re on land for cultural immersion, as this is the only major cruise ship to boast an onboard sento – a Japanese-style public bath. There is a fee to enter, from two-hour sessions to five-day passes, but how often would one get this chance?
I’ve visited more sento (and onsen) than I could count, and as far as authentic bathing experiences go, the Izumi Japanese Bath is near spot on. Males and females are separated, bathe naked and essentially follow all the conventions of a regular bathhouse.
There are indoor and outdoor baths in both areas, while outside, at the rear of the ship, a large circular bath/pool for men and women affords some of the vessel’s best views – especially at twilight.
That’s the thing about cruising here. It doesn’t replace seeing Japan. It simply lets you see a different side of it. And as I soak in the warm waters of the Izumi Bath, watching the sun sink towards the horizon, I reckon it’s a side well worth seeing.
The writer was a guest of Princess Cruises and sailed the first half of a 10-night itinerary (disembarking in Busan) that circles back to Yokohama. For more info on the cruise line, click here. All images by Mark Harada.
