Britons spend considerable sums travelling worldwide in pursuit of spectacular vistas, exceptional cuisine and exclusive experiences. However, there’s an enchanting Balearic island treasure delivering precisely that and considerably more, reachable from Exeter Airport in less than three hours – and it genuinely transports you to another realm.
Port de Sóller stands as arguably Mallorca’s most closely guarded secret. While the Spanish island has earned recognition for its bustling resort destinations such as Alcudia and Palma Nova, this magnificent mountainous enclave provides sanctuary from the frenzy of mass tourism, enabling visitors to relax and savour absolute indulgence.
Moreover, accessibility couldn’t be simpler. Public transport throughout the Balearics operates flawlessly – moments after disembarking from the two-hour TUI flight to Palma, passengers board the A1 bus link towards the vibrant city before the 204 connecting service whisks them along the main route to the Tramuntana mountains – which prove utterly mesmerising from every vantage point. No photograph, regardless of enhancement, adequately captures their infinite splendour.
Within moments you’re gliding through a tunnel carved into the natural wonderland, serving as the monumental entrance to Soller – the tourist destination reached following a delightful tram journey from Palma that merits the afternoon excursion.
Yet the port represents where true enchantment unfolds. Alighting from the bus and proceeding 10 minutes along the road reveals a panorama that will remain etched in memory. You find yourself practically speechless as you absorb the sunlit bay, stunning beaches, secluded coves, and what could arguably be described as the ultimate coastal panorama – and that’s before you examine the expansive flat semi-circular promenade featuring sophisticated bars and eateries that genuinely rivals any glamorous destination in Italy or Dubai.
My partner and I have previously stayed on two occasions at Hotel Esplendido – which literally translates to gorgeous in English. We couldn’t describe it more accurately.
From the moment you enter you sense you’ve walked onto a cinema set. It’s pristine, contemporary and spacious throughout with impeccable service to match. We selected a medium sea view room and were astounded by our fortune – the vista from the window offered an unobstructed view towards the harbour entrance where vessels drifted in leisurely fashion. A courtesy bottle of red wine sat on the side table awaiting opening.
And that’s before you explore the rear of the hotel and comprehend the remarkable terraced garden featuring towering trees that not only offer pleasant shade but considerable seclusion. Everything about the establishment exudes sophistication – contemporary, opulent, refined – with the atmosphere of an Agatha Christie novel through its period architectural details. Staff members function with precision delivering cocktails, beers, water, sandwiches and generous bowls of salad to your sun lounger while you soak up the rays.
The tranquillity and the sound of the waves breaking below were an absolute pleasure. Yet the undisputed jewel in the crown of this picturesque sanctuary – which repeatedly had us questioning whether we’d truly not travelled halfway across the globe – was the infinity pool positioned near the summit of the hotel’s grounds, commanding breathtaking views across the harbour.
The vista is almost beyond belief as you rest your arms along the edge, gazing towards the glistening waters beneath after completing a few refreshing lengths. An endless expanse of sea stretches before you while birdsong mingles with the gentle murmur of families below and trees rustle in the pleasant breeze.
During one late afternoon, hotel guests ascended to the pool area, mobile phones in hand, utterly captivated by the panorama – one American was practically speechless when I attempted small-talk. He couldn’t wait to tell his wife.
Should sunbathing not appeal – or perhaps you’ve had your fill of the scorching temperatures – the bay offers numerous alternative activities.
Primarily, there’s an abundance of culinary and beverage options. An extensive selection of upmarket dining venues awaits – varying in price point and ambience. The harbour area operates on an unspoken principle of premium pricing – you’re investing in top-tier exclusivity and tranquillity – so ensure you’ve budgeted accordingly.
We discovered an ideal family-friendly café for breakfast, offering generous servings of avocado and feta or salmon on sourdough alongside substantial iced coffees and tea at fair prices. Come evening, it transforms into a bar dispensing chilled beers and vibrant cocktails that truly capture the holiday spirit as visitors from across the globe unwind and relax. Unsurprisingly, the Balearics provide an abundance of paella and fried baby squid to satisfy even the heartiest appetites.
The promenade proves ideal for strolling. Its level surface makes it wonderfully accessible – numerous families with children and relatives using wheelchairs were taking advantage of the safe, straightforward route while the Soller tram glided past, ferrying increasing numbers of tourists to the coast each day.
The waters are remarkably transparent and ideal for swimming and snorkelling – or even paddle boarding for the more adventurous. The charming tram provides convenient access to neighbouring Soller, while the Palma bus service proves invaluable for those wishing to explore further without leaving the mountainous terrain entirely. The magnificent Jardines de Alfabia is an 18th-century tropical estate brimming with palm trees amongst numerous other wonderfully varied plants, featuring a Gothic-style residence rich in heritage.
I found myself amused that Port de Sóller in numerous respects resembled a more sophisticated Torquay – the sunshine, coastline, perpetual appeal and European atmosphere all remarkably comparable. Perhaps it offered a glimpse of the British resort during its golden era. Regardless, Port de Sóller is absolutely essential.
This article was previously published on DevonLive and other titles.