That night, we are treated to a delicious buffet dinner with market stalls spread over one of the resort lawns. The otak otak, a fish cooked in a banana leaf, is salty and scrumptious, as is the fresh mango salad alongside crispy barbecued chicken with rice. But a special mention must go to Chef Anne’s buttermilk prawns, so crispy yet tangy that I have to order a second portion. One of the guests at our table declares of Tanjong Jara, with all its amenities, its attentive staff, the long list of activities and the stunning location, ‘Where in Europe can you get all this?’ And in truth, I do not have an answer.
My top tip for any travellers fortunate enough to come here is to get up early to watch the sunrise. I stumbled out of bed at six thirty and walked the approximate 20 steps to the gazebo that overlooks the beach. There I watched the most spectacular sunrise of my life: a perfect show of pinks and peaches, lilacs, soft blues and, finally, the burning red sun bobbing over the horizon.
Before leaving Tanjong Jara – and it was with a heavy heart that I did – I make sure to attend the spa village. My therapist, Mar, kicks off proceedings with a ritual. She pours flower water over me and asks me to make a wish. Then she ties my sarong niftily into a halterneck dress and ushers me through to the treatment room where I have a traditional Malay massage, with satisfyingly firm pressure, followed by a scalp massage, using traditional Malay herbs and spices including ginger and turmeric.

