When I mention this island’s name, you might be surprised, but stick with me as I reckon its hotels and restaurants these days are every bit as good as Dubai. I’ve been coming to Tenerife since 1998 and have witnessed a massive transformation in the largest Canarian island, which shares the same flag as Scotland.
Tenerife also shares epic scenery with Scotland: a mountain in Teide almost three times higher than Ben Nevis, a gorgeously craggy coastline and myriad brilliant hikes. There are Unesco World Heritage sites, the world’s second-largest Carnival after Rio, rich indigenous culture and world-class viniculture.
I’ve just been back and was more impressed than ever by the hotels. First up was the Barceló Tenerife ( www.barcelo.com ). I love what the Spanish Barceló brand has done in a rapidly changing part of Tenerife, handily close to the airport. They’ve committed to preserving the adjacent San Blas nature reserve, and the first morning I embarked on a guided tour that opened up its flora and fauna and how it fits into efforts to preserve the island in the face of mass tourism.
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The Barceló Tenerife is massively improved, most notably in its restaurants. Fresh local produce and live cooking stations liven up the buffet restaurant, with a chef brought in from a Michelin-starred kitchen to offer a daily changing breakfast dish. I rated their new Italian too, Dolce Vita, where Michelin one-star chef Niki Pavanelli elevates the tasting menu he curated.
My second hotel was a delight too, the Hotel Gran Taoro ( www.granhoteltaoro.com ) in the island’s less-visited north. As tourism booms in the south this year, I recommend heading north to escape the crowds. This five-star dame boasts serious history, the favourite haunt of Tenerife-fan Agatha Christie, and it’s great to see it re-opened this year after a massive overhaul that has brought it up there among Tenerife’s best hotels.
The views over Puerto de la Cruz and vaulting Mount Teide are jaw-dropping, best enjoyed from the trio of swimming pools. You just don’t get views like this in Dubai. Public spaces and the lobby evoke the class and drama of another gentler age of hotels, a pleasantly retro chic.
They’re going for it in the culinary stakes too, with their Maria Ramon explaining: “We want to be known for our superb food and wine, a real gastronomic destination in its own right.”
They are well on the way, judging by the local produce-sprinkled tasting menu I tried alive with spot-on Tenerife wines. If I were a betting man, I’d say Michelin will soon come calling with a star or two.
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Cutting back south, Michelin has already hailed the Royal Hideaway Corales Resort (www.barcelo.com). Indeed, they now boast four Michelin stars, more than any hotel in Spain. On this stay, I dined at San Ho. Their “tasting journey” trumped anything I’ve ever had in Dubai, swirling from local fish cherne to Atlantic tuna, and on to a stunning dessert made with Fuerteventura goat’s cheese, all served with perfectly matched (mainly Canarian) wines.
Corales is a hotel of two halves, which works really well. Some hotels look down on families, but here, kids of all ages can live their best lives in serious luxury, or you can enjoy the serenity of the adults-only section. I was impressed at the can-do service throughout, having stayed in both sides, attention to detail and restaurants that excelled across the board.
Last but certainly not least is an old favourite of mine, the first luxury hotel in Tenerife I ever stayed at in 1998. The Bahia del Duque ( www.thetaishotels.com/bahia-del-duque ) once sat by the gap between growing Costa Adeje and distant La Caleta, but now development has closed that gap. The Bahia del Duque has impressively soared on, its recipe of proper luxury allied with the ambience of a traditional Canarian village keeping it distinct and up mingling at the top table.
The Bahia del Duque’s restaurants used to let it down for me, but it has reacted to growing competition and more big changes are looming. Already, they have a Michelin-star restaurant. I really rate their Beach Club too. A cooling Atlantic breeze and breezy summer vibe suit a menu with tapas-style starters like garlic prawns and fried squid, alongside fresh local fish and a range of paellas and rice dishes. I also checked out La Trattoria, which felt like a cosy Italian rather than a hotel restaurant.
If you’ve been having second thoughts about treating yourself to a fancy break in Dubai, then why not consider Tenerife? I’ve been coming here for almost 30 years, and its sweeping choice of hotels these days are easily a match for Dubai. The flight time is shorter too, and you’ll have the bonus of Saltires popping up around the isle.
Easyjet ( easyjet.com) flies to Tenerife from Scotland. Tourist information at www.webtenerife.co.uk