Nonetheless, I dreamed of surfing. The prospect of wipeouts terrified me, yet the regret of never trying it was even scarier, so when an opportunity presented itself on a work assignment in Indonesia’s Mentawai archipelago, I grabbed it. Here, the Indian Ocean current flows uninterrupted, producing consistent waves that surfers love. For decades, hardcore board junkies were the only foreigners to venture to this remote region south of Sumatra, but family-run Aloita Resort caters to a broader crowd, including surf virgins. I couldn’t have picked a more beautiful spot to have my first lesson: warm turquoise sea, a beach backed by a forest of coconut palms, and professional photographer Grant Davis on hand to capture my moves. My Spanish instructor, Victoria Lvova, was the perfect teacher. Fun and reassuringly calm, she told me where to wait for the low-amplitude shoulder of the wave to arrive.
At one point, I drifted too far left and watched in horror as a Hokkusai wall of water (a ripple by pro standards) rolled towards me. It pushed me downwards and sideways, snatching the board from my hands and flipping it upside down. When I broke the surface, Victoria was there to tell me, “It’s ok,” and help reposition the board. I had taken my first wipeout—my biggest concern—and emerged unscathed. A few more waves came along (I managed to stand up once), and I took a second wipeout without any drama. The biggest challenge, as is often the case in life, turned out to be something I hadn’t anticipated—the sheer exhaustion of paddling. Forget sharks or drowning; if anything was going to kill me, it was intense shoulder ache.
So what was the worst that did happen? Well, an undignified photo of me riding my board on my hands and knees, wearing an uncool life vest. Not a strong look, but I felt like Superwoman (and would’ve given myself a pat on the back if my shoulders weren’t so sore). This surf experience felt like a massive cherry pop, a baptism into a new and less fearful realm. I’ve since transferred that confidence to the administrative and writing parts of my life, tackling the tsunami of tasks waiting for me back home, and knuckling down to write articles. I’m a million miles away from the Indonesian surf, but its lessons will stay with me forever.
This article was originally published on Condé Nast Traveller UK.